Bordeaux En Primeur 2020

Well, someone had to!

I’m looking forward to contribute analyses of value for each major release as last year’s Bordeaux EP campaign. We’re hearing it’ll be another early campaign and I’m excited to see the notes and perspectives on the wines and the vintage from Team Jancis when they get published next week. Many thanks to Jancis for inviting me back!

I was in Bordeaux last summer and although part of July had a heatwave, August didn’t seem out of the ordinary and nights were fresh. We’ll have to see!

My first thought of the campaign is perhaps somewhat predictable, prompted by Jancis’s Bordeaux Primeurs free for all article last Thursday, when she wrote:

It may well turn out that the price reductions that helped make the 2019 primeur campaign such a success were a pandemic-inspired one-off. As I outlined in The ‘miracle’ primeur campaign, perhaps it really was a miracle that so many Bordeaux château owners were prepared to reduce their prices.

I do hope that doesn’t prove to be the case. I’m looking at secondary market prices of 2019s and there are broadly exactly where they were at first release. Admittedly, post-primeur action doesn’t generally kick in til the wines are bottled and the critics re-taste the final blend under cork. Still, it will take a brave (or very rich :slight_smile: ) proprietor to jack up prices on the back of an overall tentative Bordeaux market performance over the last few years.

Wine Lister’s Bordeaux 2021 study also warns of the ongoing risks to Bordeaux’s flagging attractiveness, whilst acknowledging the effect astute pricing had on the success of last year’s campaign.

Consumers have been spending big on wine this past year. Following a very quiet period during March and April 2020 at the start of Covid, fine wine buying took off again, with an extremely strong showing at the affordable level of everyday drinkers as well as at the collecting end of the market. Italian 2016 releases were extremely sought after and buyer exuberance culminated in a febrile atmosphere around the feted 2019 Burgundies, a campaign that felt like a real scramble, even though the wines themselves were a bit inconsistent.

I’m speaking with more retailers than ever before now that my business is focused on software as a service for the wine trade. What I’m hearing from wine retailers is that the last year has been exceptional for those businesses focused on the consumer, exciting new e-commerce brands have been launched, and even those merchants who have been historically dependent on hospitality have made up for their annihilated Ontrade sales with the tsunami in consumer activity.

Will the spending spree carry on, to the benefit of Bordeaux 2020, or are there signs that the fine wine buyer is a little weary, not to mention wary? The next couple of months will tell, and I’m excited to be sharing the analyses here as the releases come out with our relative value analysis charts.

I’ll be sponsoring the London Wine Fair May 17-19 so my colleague Miles Davis will be on standby for when I’m tied up with conference and meetings with wine businesses on how they can make themselves more efficient and continue to prosper in the post-Covid world that we are gradually entering.

A step back into the familiar, yet forward into the unknown, and into a re-energised world that does feel incredibly exciting - and in some ways may well have changed forever!

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Good to read from you Nick :smiley:

I’ve read somewhere that the consensus among the trade seems to be a price increase of 10-20% in euros in comparison with the 2019 vintage. I guess we will soon know.

A couple of months ago I had a quick cheked and was surprised to see that the vast majority of the 2019s were still available at their first release price here in Switzerland with a few exceptions (Mission Haut-Brion and Mouton Rothschild come to mind). We also see the 2018s arriving on the market and theirs prices haven’t moved or have even come down, which is not surprising given their ambitious release prices. One notable exception is Palmer, but then this is a UFO.

Based on the above and on the fact that I splurged last year, I plan to focus on some core wines (Calon, Canon, Carmes) and will see for the rest. But then it’s my plan for each EP campaign and I end up with much more wine than expected in my cellar.

I look forward to your analyses.

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Hello Matthieu!

Let’s see, there’s certainly some some local rationale for putting prices up such as a shorter crop (in places), end of (or suspended) US tariffs, and the exuberance we’ve seen through Covid as confined nations take their medicine :-).

On the other hand when was the last time buying a new Bordeaux vintage as a future proved a really smart move? 2014? Selectively of course there are a clutch of winners every year, but that’s not the same as running a successful campaign.

Chloe Ashton in the Wine Lister report sums it neatly (and they’re fans of Bordeaux):

“The unprecedented circumstances of the 2019 vintage nonetheless provided a magnifying glass through which the successes (and repeated failures) of Bordeaux were clearer than ever. While astute pricing went some way to restoring global faith in the short term, a second year under pandemic pressure has the potential to cut deep, with prices of many releases from last year having stayed put or even decreased”.

By the way I topped up on La Gaffeliere 2019 earlier this month, a well situated property next to Ausone that’s been underperforming for years and has now transformed in a juicy, classic right bank style.

Let’s see if we can put your vinous self control to the test once again this year!

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Good to see you Nick commenting on release prices.

Even so, some of these wines might not be everyone’s cup of tea. In shock at some of the ABV levels shown in today’s Right Bank report with Clinet coming out at 15.5% (is this Sherry?) and most seem to be at a Barolo level of ABV - being 14.5%. Is 2016 the last recent vintage where ABVs were in check? I didn’t really follow 2017 too closely.

I know it is all about “balance” - I get it, and I am a Barolo drinker, and Southern Rhone as well, still I feel a bit uncomfortable at Bordeaux wines veering on 15%. One wonders if sufficient fastidiousness was carried out in the vineyard in terms of canopy management (- which is watched closely in regions such as Burgundy where plots are tiny and the best producers give them undivided attention) and picking dates.

I will look forward to seeing how some of the viticulturaly more innovative estates have handled the heat in 2020…

Far be it from me to leap to the defence of the Bordelais, but as one who has tasted not a few bordeaux 2020s with relatively high alcohols, I can assure you that if we give them a high score, you really wouldn’t be able to sense the alcohol level when tasting.

The talented Valérie Lavigne and Prof Axel Marchal agree with my perception of this phenomenon and explain the reasons behind it in The highs and lows of alcohol.

There is now, thank goodness, massive attention to detail in Bordeaux vineyards so I don’t think the Bordelais could be accused of viticultural laxity. I’m afraid it’s global warming to blame.

And, sadly, although our palates are very unlikely to detect these high alcohol levels, the same cannot be said of our livers. Grrr.

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A beautiful booklet arrived from Cos d’Estournel this morning. Le grand vin comes in at 13.46 abv, Pagodes at 13.28.

So, I don’t think generalisations easily apply this year.

For example, tasted Durfort Vivens 2020 last week, and that was an explosion of mouthwatering black cherry with a lavender-infused follow through.

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And I see from James’s enthusiastic note on Lafite 2020, to be published tomrrow, that it’s only 12.8%!

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Very curious about the Durfort Vivens Nick. I bought the insanely low yielding 2018 on your call. I like the ethos of the estate and one of the very few committed to biodynamics, and a surprise to many that it is a 2nd growth.

Do you have any further info on the 2018 in terms of yield, picking date, ABV, if it tasted balanced - and whether it will get your buy recommendation if the price is right?

Saskia de Rothschild explains that 12.8%:

Yes, that low alcohol is explained by the godsend thunderstorm we got mid August. At the time, we thought 110 mm would be too much but it definitely helped calm the temper of the vintage!

You’ll be pleased to have bought the 2018 - for me it’s just a beautiful wine of great depth and harmony (and the closest thing you get to rarity on the Left Bank). 13.6 ABV. Prices haven’t budged but then it was a leap in price compared to the 2016 - taking it closer to other second growths in price such as Leoville Barton. It will move up when the preordered merchant stocks sell through, however long that takes.

I don’t see Durfort prices ever going down again. It may well be that an exceptional event was the trigger for the price increase, but I suspect this is their new minimum level.

2020 ABV is 13.4. The great soils of the Medoc can act as a heatsink and protect the fruit. James Lawther’s reference to crunchy fruit is nice: crunchy black cherry! Too early to start saying it’s worth buying early though. It might not be.

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Thank you @JancisRobinson @Julia_Harding_MW @James_Lawther for the articles and tasting notes. Here are a few disjointed thoughts.

Having a look at the tasting notes for the Left Bank, it may be easier to make choices as was the case last year since some properties seem to have underperformed (Pape Clément, Lascombes, Marquis de Terme, Beychevelle, Branaire-Ducru, Phélan Segur or even Haut-Bailly, to name a few). Pauillac has done quite well overall, with Haut-Bages Libéral on an upward trajectory. With regard to Saint-Julien, I was glad to read that Léoville Barton seems to be less austere than usual while remaining a must-buy. In Saint-Estèphe, Cos, Montrose and Calon tower above the rest, with Capbern foreseeably GV and Lafon-Rochet confirming its progress (“appetising and groundbreaking” sounds very enticing to me).

The Right Bank is more homogenous although I was shocked to see only 17 points awarded to Cheval Blanc. It cannot even be ascribed to the sample, as it was tasted in situ by James. In terms of value, Grand Corbin Despagne and Grand-Village will be on my shopping list. As Thierry Desseauve often says of the former, it’s a wine you would always find in your father’s cellar.

No big surprise among the members of the 18 and over club with Château Margaux, Lafleur and Lafite contenders for the title of wine of the vintage.

Of course, all of this needs to be taken with a pinch of salt given the peculiarities of EP tastings, all the more so in the current circumstances.

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Many thanks indeed for the timely and comprehensive overview. Especially given the circumstances quite a feat!

Of the wines I might be interested in purchasing EP the only one that I missed in this overview would be Meyney, which has turned out to be such a good buy in recent vintages. If anybody has any thoughts on their 2020 it would be much appreciated.

Edit: I just saw the articles will be added to after initial publication so perhaps I was a bit too fast there :slight_smile:

Although we decided to concentrate mainly on the crus classés, because Meyney has been doing so well recently, I specially requested a sample of it from the relevant one of the many PR people trying to press samples on us. But none arrived so I asked the talented Anne Le Naour who makes it (with a little help from Hubert de Boüard, I think) whether she could send me a sample. Here is her response:

I am doing very well and am as happy as possible (very happy in fact but impatient to come back to a less constrained life!).

I hope you are doing well too and that we will have the chance to see you again soon in Bordeaux.

I’m surprised you haven’t gotten any feedback from Ozco, but count on me, you’ll get your Meyney sample!

My very best

PS : you should ask UGCB to bring in Meyney :wink:

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I’ve just had my first ever 15.5% Bordeaux. This one. They must have added another degree since your tasting note. I must admit that I didn’t pick it up from tasting, apart from the fact it’s a bit of whopper

Fantastic! I see the note has already been added, it looks like it might be a good buy once again :slight_smile:

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Here goes, leading with the mighty BEAUMONT. No Cos or Pontet Canet breaking ranks this year so far, but who needs them when you have Beaumont?

Unfortunately for them, their release has my full attention.

This campaign we are comparing 2020 with 2019, 2018, 2015 and 2009, all hotter vintages to varying degrees, and going back far enough in time to figure out if buying the same wine en primeur is a smart move - or not.

Here’s the market price vs points analysis for them all, showing that once in bottle Beaumont does move up in price. Compared to 2015, 2020 is a full 33% cheaper! That’s a big gap if we’re talking Lafite. But for Beaumont we’re talking about £4.40 per bottle.

Here’s the relative value analysis. To remind you of how the graphs work, the longer the bar, the better the value. The bigger the gap between vintages, the more compelling the vintage with the longer bar is. Geddit?

Notwithstanding the 33% difference in price between 2015 and the 2020 new release, the 2015 shows as the better buy because of it’s whopping 17 score, compared with the 2020’s 15.5 points.

So unless you’re a buyer for an Oxbridge college with Chinese student fees burning a hole in your tweed pocket, maybe hold fire.

Miles Davis !!..wow …really ! :wink:.

Continuing with the Asian theme, BELFONT BELCIER, Grand Cru Classé since 2006, is now backed with Chinese investment, and has just released. With a quarter Cab Franc in the blend, James is making this sound most appealing with his references to fresh, vibrant, touch of leaf and spice, dances on the palate with juicy fruit…

Here’s the market price vs points analysis:

And here’s the relative value analysis. Longer the bar, bigger the gap, the more compelling the buy.

Yet, if there’s been a shift to a more refined approach, judging by the difference in reviews from 2015 and 2020, comparison with back vintages becomes less relevant.

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Yes really. His father was a jazz fan, and given the family name Davis, it was simply too tempting…

We too are jazz fans here at Wine Owners.

Heads up - Mouiex wines out tomorrow - up to the level of Hosanna.