Bordeaux En Primeur 2023

Hello forumites! It’s that time of year again when En Primeur kicks off, buyers get grumpy recalling the release price of Bordeaux 1998, and we scratch our heads wondering why we should buy wine early when the producers have taken most if not all of the upside off the table.

Then of course there’s value destruction. The joy of seeing the cost of an EP purchase subside in the cold, rational light of day, economic headwinds, a pause in discretionary spend out of China and a general market downturn, leaving you wondering why you got sucked in…yet again.

Then every few years there’s a reset. The Chateaux come to realise that over-optimistic pricing is killing demand, putting off new market entrants, and ceding share of wallet to completely different categories, and that it’s not a given that the world will flock to buy Bordeaux as futures. And if they don’t buy futures, will they discover how brilliant Bordeaux can be?

The role of négociants is of course pivotal. After last year’s very poor campaign, which should have got market traction but didn’t due to unappetising pricing, you can imagine the conversation that took place.

“Guys, have you seen the rates on loans these days? Please don’t think we’re going to buy your releases this year if you don’t do something significant. We played the game when cost of money was low or negative (in real terms after inflation). But if we borrow more at market rates to fund working capital to buy your 2023 releases, we’ll be writing down the value of stock within months. There’s a real risk we’ll be insolvent.”

“If you value 3-tier distribution as an efficient mechanism for distributing 8-10 million bottles released each year by the top 60+ Bordeaux brands, then please take this warning seriously”.

“Oh, and please don’t it drag out for months like you normally do. It’s hopeless turning up at Vinexpo HK and telling buyers how great the wines are without being able to sell them a drop.”

2023 is the year of the reset. It has to be. It’s existential.

The last reset was when we thought the world was about to end in 2020. Whilst the sentiment isn’t the same this time around, the potential dangers to the world order are just as great, if not greater. And we need to bear in mind there are plenty of 2019 prices that have barely budged since release.

Cometh the moment, cometh the man/ woman. And it seems like the Chateaux are stepping up to plate.

So here’s a campaign that will kick off the week after en primeur week for professionals, and be more or less done and dusted before the end May. The big guns will lead the charge, with the advance party coming out early May, and the rest tucked in just behind.

Prices will be well down, and what remains to be seen is, will the reductions be enough to light the blue touch paper, entice buyers into the market and possibly to kick start the market more broadly?

I’ll be travelling a lot in May this year, so regrettably the amount of relative value analyses we’ll be able to do will be much reduced. But my colleague @josh.hawes will be helping out and we hope to at least cover the biggest releases. For everything else you can always run relative value analyses on Wine Collector.

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Good to read from you Nick! I was almost starting to get worried :sweat_smile:

From what I read or heard from wine merchants here, they’re expecting a short campaign and lower prices. On verra.

Looking forward to reading your and Josh’s analyses.

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For those interested I saw the following information on the release dates on Twitter:

29.04: Batailley, Dubourdieu wines, Ch Bellevue St Em
30.04: Valandraud, Delon Wines, Pontet Canet
02.05: Lafite stable, Borie-Manoux stable,
03.05: La Lagune, St Pierre, Camensac
06.05:Mouton Rothschild stable
07.05: Pedesclaux, Lafon Rochet, Cantemerle, Chasse Spleen, Malartic
13.05: Cheval Blanc stable, The Bartons, Kirwan, Labergorce & Marquis d’Alesme
14.05: Clarence Dillon (Haut Brions - 9 wines!), Gloria
15.05: Ausone stable, Malescot St Exupery
16.05: Issan, Carbonnieux, Sociando Mallet, Rauzan Gassies
21.05: Beychevelle, Dom de Chevalier Stable, Gonzague Lurton stable.
22.05: Canon la Gaffe, Clos Fourtet,
23.05: Larrivet Haut Brion, La Gaffeliere

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Ch d’Angludet was out on Friday and posed an interesting question, which is, what’s the value in buying drinking claret en primeur?

Evidently a successful vintage for Angludet. A bit more Petit Verdot in the blend than the average, presumably it ripened especially well in 2023 (?), and that’s sure to add punch. Also they’re using amphorae now (40%) and are farming organically, so lots of theoretical ticks. £32 inclusive of duties and tax seems quite appealing. The really good news is that these days there’s plenty of good options at around that price such as Gonzague Lurton’s Durfort Vivens 100% Cab Sauv cuvée Nature that drinks from release yet has plenty of staying power for at least the medium term.

In fact, there’s something of a quiet revolution at this level going on in Bordeaux. The approachability, relative complexity and classicism that modern affordable Bordeaux offers can compete with anything out there, and the sooner the world cottons on the better (for them!).

Back to this release, those who want it will buy it, yet Margaux was especially successful in 2015 and the 8-year premium you’ll pay for that is negligible (overlooking the evident changes in vineyard husbandry and elevage).

Prices and points

Relative value analysis

I see Batailley is out at GBP 324. That might be a hard sell given you can get the 2020 at pretty much that price. The tone from Angludet and Batailley is not hinting at huge discounts compared to last year but neither likely has the margin to offer huge discounts (being relatively fairly priced) so let’s keep our fingers crossed and wait and see what happens!

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@itsgcastro and that’s what the numbers say as well. I don’t place much importance on relative value analysis at these price points, other to remark that 2022 looks overdone. That however will be a leitmotif when reviewing 2023 releases I suspect.

Prices and points

Relative value analysis

Leoville Las Cases

Delivering on the promise of a meaningful reduction over 2022. However competing with 2019, considered “one of the greats” and looking well priced in context.

Prices and points

Relative value analysis

Pontet Canet

Almost a third less than 2022, but - for now at least - with a rather modest score. It’s the score that drags down the new release in a relative value analysis. However, given that the ‘matiere’ is there and it has its fans this year, it seems there’s room for upside.

Plus a new lightweight bottle is sure to please @JancisRobinson.

Prices and points

Relative value analysis

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Thanks Nick. The Las Cases and Pontet Canet charts are showing what I suspected might be the case. 2019 is a higher rated vintage with more age and whose prices have gone down over the past 12 months (in some cases like Las Cases and Pontet Canet, back to almost their release prices or lower). Despite what the Chateaux marketing departments might say, for me the comparison is less about the reduction of 2023 prices vs 2022 prices but where 2023 sits in terms of price vs 2019. If it’s even close between the 2023 and 2019 offering, then 2019 will almost certainly be the better option. That’s my rule of thumb anyway!

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I believe Pontet Canet is changing in a positive way, so it feels to me like an interesting wine to have in the cellar and maybe not so obviously comparable to 2019 for that reason.

Any views on Carruades? Price looks good on the face of it?

Carruades

With a healthy discount to all comparison secondary market prices, as well as the 2022 release (needless to say), this (as Asset Wines commented in an email out this morning) is the whole point of EP.

Here there is a clear financial rationale to buy.

Price and points

Relative value analysis

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Lafite

A healthy reduction over 2022, and 10% less expensive than the 2019.

Based on the most recently published score of Lafite 2019 (17), 2023 looks considerably more attractive, but, a slightly earlier dated score from what looks like it may have been the same Chinese tasting by @JancisRobinson marked 2019 at 18.5, which makes it less clear cut. Notwithstanding, the well rated 2023 will sell out and will have done its job of reigniting interest in En Primeur, which is just what the market needs. Bravo!

Price and points

Relative value analysis

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Thanks for the great analyses again Nick! I’ve bought Pontet Canet and Carruades :slight_smile:

When might we expect the JR reviews to come online? Since the releases have started and are coming in at a high pace it would be awfully useful to have access to them soon…

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" If you are a consumer who plans to buy en primeur, you’ll want to look at the harvest reports. Gavin Quinney of Château Bauduc wrote a very detailed report of the 2023 growing season that details how the shorter-than-average crop, warm weather and mildew pressure varied in comparison to past vintages. Our Bordeaux specialist, James Lawther MW, is at en primeur reviewing. His overview will be out 2 May and his notes will be out 6–8 May to help you with purchasing decisions."

Vintage port declarations, bordeaux en primeur, Austria’s Wachau certified sustainable | JancisRobinson.com

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To be honest, factoring in scores across the market, I think I’d still prob rather have ‘19 than ‘23 (Lafite). Carruades value does look hard to argue with - I’m a bit surprised it’s not selling faster. But then what’s selling fast hasn’t been a good predictor of value at least for the last couple of years!

Ahh thanks I had missed that bit!

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l’Evangile

It’s a bit of a conundrum how 2019s have performed in the secondary market. or maybe a reflection of how illiquid recent vintages tend to be where collectors hold onto stocks in the hope that a rising tide will eventually float all boats. Having floated down since release it very recently jumped to current levels.

Anyhow, L’Evangile 2019 still looks relative value. If you had to chooce Lafite, Carruades or Lafite, it’s quite clear where you’re money would go at this point.

Price and points

Relative value analysis

Talbot

At £38.50 release per bottle it’s down over 20% on last year, and is on a qualitative roll that puts it back to where it was in the '80s. 2022 was unscored here, so i’ve excluded it from the analysis.

At this level there’s not an awful lot to complain about, and worth a shout out as a resurgent property, just like the other ex-Cordier properties of Gruaud and Meyney.

Price per points

Relative value analysis

Any thoughts on La Lagune?